Decals for embedding

This weekend I am working on using printed logos/decals from my computer and sealing them to embed into rings.

I have received 3 special requests involving company logos or favorite sports teams. This is my favorite project yet. I love custom projects and the artistic freedom that comes with it. Many times people will just send me a picture via attachment and I work with it to shrink it down and print for the embedding process. Many people think that custom jobs are time consuming and boring. I think quite the opposite. I love when somone give me a piece of inspiration to go on and trusts me to create an awesome original piece.

I am experimenting more and more, with resin dyes and layering techniques, that are a little more advanced then I am use to. Once you reach a certain level of "expertise" with resin, you can not help but want to take it to the next level. The possibilities are endless and it seems like the projects just get bigger and bigger!

I am going to see if someone can help me get some pics while I prepare the logo decal rings, so that I can share them here!

Resin Chica

Some bling bling...well sort of

Check out my latest batch of rings! I worked on these in 3 stages over the weekend whew! The pictures honestly do not do them any justice...not to too my own horn, but it is what it is right?

Resin Chica

Resin Epoxy Molds 411 the basics

Basic video describing some of the molds you can use when working with resin.

An easy way to sand down your resin pieces

You have created your resin pieces and pushed them out of the molds, but they are rough around the edges...literally! I have outlined below a great way to sand down your pieces to the smoothness you desire. Pics above help too!

1.) Buy a pack of mixed grit waterproof sandpaper. (You can get these at any home depot or the like)

2.) These packs have assorted grits from 220 (very fine) to 600 (ultra fine). This is the type of paper that you can use in water. Why would you want to use the sandpaper in water you ask? Using a shallow pan of water like the one above helps keep the tiny resin dust from getting in the air and into your lungs.

3.) I found that if you cut a small piece of the sandpaper and wrap it around a nail file you can maneuver it with great ease, then when you are done you can dispose of the used sand paper grit. Cutting the paper down will help you to save the areas that go unused for your next project. I have had the same pack for a while now.

4.) Try different grits and see which one give you the outcome you want. I use the 220 because I like to sand down the sides pretty good.

Resin Chica

RESIN Candy Sprinkle RINGS!

Check out my newest batch of rings!!! There are many more that I am working on!

Tell me what you think!!

Resin Chica!

And the winner is...

PiinkCupcakez blogger!!!

Sorry it took me so long to announce! I had to restart my computer!! URGH!!

The winner will receive a handmade resin adjustable band ring made with epoxy resin and real candy sprinkles with an overcoat of super fine glitter!

CLICK HERE TO SEE IT!!

I will make contact with the winner! I will also announce next weeks "follower" giveaway this weekend!! Stay tuned! Thanks to everyone!

Resin Chica

Casting resin the ice resin way!

I usually write about casting epoxy resin. Lately, I have been seeing a whole lot about Ice Resin, so I decided to do a Resin Chica 101 and bring the info to you!

Ice resin- is a clear resin that is also used for projects involving jewelry and paper.

What makes this resin different from the easy cast resin that I use for my projects? I honestly have not noticed very many differences and my research has indicated the same. The conclusion I draw is that it is a matter of preference, but I am leaning toward the difference being the "ice" like texture and look of the ice resin. Hence "Ice" in ice resin. I have also heard that it may be less odorous and not as harmful of a chemical, but don't quote me.

I am going to be working on a project using ice resin soon and I will tell you first hand what differences I notice right off the back.

In the meantime, check out the mother of all information for ice resin- http://www.iceresin.com/ for more info and cool picks as to what you can do with resin casting specific to ice resin. Let me know if you try it out yourself!

Resin Chica- the Resinista of Resin

Ice resin! Last time!

I keep goofing this post up! Check out this video of working with Ice Resin! If you have worked with this before, please comment and share what you did. I would love to learn more!

--Resin Chica

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AJ4vIptOQA

Resin casting embedding project

I am excited to share with you my favorite thing to do with resin! Embedding objects in resin! Have you ever seen something floating inside of clear material such as a paper weight and wondered how it got there? With a step by step process I am going to show you how to create a pendent with beads floating in the resin. I am going to make it as simple as possible.

Things you will need

1. Protective goggles
2. Gloves (I tend to use standard latex gloves)
   
3. Wax paper for your surface
4. Easy Cast resin
5. Small mixing cups
6. Stirrers (Popsicle sticks or coffee stirrers)
7. Timer
8. Pendant Mold
9. Item to embed (in this case we are using about 5 small beads)
10. Patience

Step 1- Prepare work space with all of your items handy and your wax paper to work on and prevent the resin from getting on anything. Make sure to set up in a ventilated area.

Step 2-With gloves and glasses, mix Easy Cast resin. Follow instructions on package exactly. Make sure to follow the 1:1 ratio and make sure to make in small amounts (this varies on how many mold cavities you decide to fill at once)

Step 3- Once resin is fully mixed you have about 30 minutes to work with it before it starts to thicken. Fill in your pendant mold about half way full. You will notice small bubbles rising to the surface. This is normal. You can use a heat gun to hurry up the process or a toothpick.

Step 4- This is a tricky step because you want to leave the resin to thicken a bit, but not harden. This will involve some tooth picking to periodically test consistency. (you do not want to touch the mold with your finger unless you want fingerprints on the pendent)

Step 5-Once the resin has a jelly like consistency you are ready to add your small beads or whatever you decide to embed. I often times embed letter beads such as those shown in the picture.

Step 6- Make sure there are no bubbles beneath the item. Many times you will have to seal the items first before placing in the resin to prevent them from collecting bubbles or ruining the item. If you are using a porous item like a decal printed on paper, you will want to use a sealant. I prefer Mod Podge (follow directions)

Step 7- Pour in the rest of the resin fully covering small beads. The beads should be floating somewhere in the middle on top of the jelly like resin but beneath the newly poured resin.

Step 8- Let the resin cure for 24 hours (this is my suggestion) Depending on the temperature and a few other factors some only cure their resin for about 12 hours. Make sure to place the mold in a spot that will not be moved or shaken.

Step 9- Turn over mold and gently push to pop out resin piece. This should be fairly easy, but if you have problems and you have waited the full amount of curing time, try putting the mold in the freezer for a couple of minutes.

Step 10- You now have your resin piece ready to do whatever you want. You may find that the edges need to be sanded down a bit. You can do this with a foam nail file for small jobs such as the pendent.

Epoxy Resin Casting with everything under the moon!

When I first starting experimenting with epoxy resin, I would always hear that you could embed "anything" in resin. I would go online and try to find a general list of some examples but was still not able to find a good one or at least one for beginners. Here is the list that I wish I could have found when I first started.

Some things you can embed in resin

• Glitter
• Stickers
• Paper (make sure its sealed)
• Sand
• Beads
• Candy (my personal fav)
• Polymer clay pieces
• Dried Flower
• Insects (not my cup of tea)
• Seashells
• Rocks
• Thread

Now "go crazy!"
-Resin Chica

What is wrong with my resin jewelry pieces?

So you have mixed and poured your resin mix into molds and you even took the time to embed some objects. You use the tweezers to rearrange some of the decals in the resin and step back to admire your hard work. All done right? Wrong. Something that most people so not know is that working with resin is actually pretty tricky. Its not rocket science, but it does require some finesse. So why should you really have to wait the suggested 24 hours for your resin to set and to pop our your pieces? Here are 2 BIG problems you will encounter due to your impatience...trust me, I speak from personal impatient experience!

1.) Piece will not pop out of tray (this should happen easily)
2.) Piece is still tacky or sticky to the touch once removed and will be ruined

Here are some possible explanations for when your resin pieces come out "less then perfect"

• Resin is sticky or tacky- You most likely did not measure properly or mix the 2 part system (when using epoxy resin) completely
  

• Embedded decal changes color or becomes translucent- You most likely failed to seal (I suggest Mod Podge) prior to embedding.

• There are tons of tiny bubbles- This is a temperature problem and the resin was too cold when mixed.

• You are not able to get the pieces out of mold- Many molds need to be treated with release spray (I spray some on all my molds regardless) or the resin has not been able to cure long enough.

• There are bubbles under the embedded item- Make sure to brush the item with resin prior to embedding and use tweezers or a toothpick to gently push out any bubbles from under the piece.

These problems are easy to fix for the most part, and they happen to everyone at least once when working with resin.

Resin Chica Tip: When waiting out your 24 hours for resin to cure, make sure to place molds on a surface that is flat and even, and use large tupperware containers to place upside down over the molds to prevent anything from falling in the resin and becoming permanent. Dust would not be very pretty in resin.

Resin Chica

its shiney! Mold trays!

What do you use to create the shapes and designs of the funky resin pieces?



I began by using the standard mold trays that you can buy at any craft store. They are made by Castin Craft and are super easy to use. http://www.kitkraft.biz/product.php?productid=6775

Intructions- make sure to protect work area with wax paper (or similar paper).

• Spray with MOLD RELEASE
  
• Place mold tray on level surface.
  
• Fill mold cavities just below top.
• Place tray in sturdy spot where it will not be moved or jerked.
• Place cover over tray to prevent dust and/or particles from getting in mold (tupperware upside down- my preference)
  
• Once pieces are cured (I like to wait 24 hours), turn tray over and press center area of each piece to release, flex if necessary.
  

****RESIN CHICA TIP: Place in freezer for a couple of minutes to help with pieces that may be "stuck".****

Although these are easy to use, they do not allow for much creativity, but are a GREAT beginners tool.

Happy Molding - Resin Chica

mixing it up!

Check out this super helpful resin turorial! Cindy is awesome! Thanks CINDY!!